Learn about Lead

• What is lead?
• Where is lead found?
• How can people be exposed to lead?
• Possible adverse health effects of exposures to lead
• Lead exposure data

What is Lead?

Lead is a highly toxic metal and it is all around us. Lead was used for many years in paints and other products found in and around our homes. Lead-based paint and lead contaminated dust are the main sources of exposure for lead in U.S. children. Lead-based paints were banned for use in housing in 1978. There is a good chance that any home, building, school or day care center built before 1978 contains some lead paint.

One million children are affected by lead poisoning, but when you know what to look for and what to do, lead poisoning is entirely preventable.

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Where is Lead Found?

The most common source of lead is from paint in homes and buildings built before 1978. Lead also can be emitted into the air from industrial sources and leaded aviation gasoline, and lead can enter drinking water through plumbing materials.

It is also used in the production of batteries, ammunition, metal products (solder and pipes), and devices to shield X-rays. Because of health concerns, lead from paints and ceramic products, caulking, and pipe solder has been dramatically reduced in recent years. The use of lead as an additive to automobile gasoline was banned in 1996 in the United States.

Lead is also a naturally occurring element. Natural levels of lead in soil range between 50 parts per million (ppm) and 400 ppm. Mining, smelting, and refining activities have resulted in substantial increases in lead levels in the environment, especially near mining and smelting sites. For example, near some types of industrial and municipal facilities, and adjacent to highways (Chaney et al., 1984; Schacklette et al., 1984) soil lead concentrations have been reported to be more than 11,000 ppm (National Research Council, 1980).

Read more about where lead can be found:

• • At home
  • At schools and childcare facilities
  • In products
  • In drinking water
  • In outdoor air
  • In soil

How Can People Be Exposed to Lead?

Children

Lead is dangerous to children because babies and young children often put their hands and other objects that can have lead dust on them in their mouths. Also, children’s growing bodies absorb more lead than adult bodies do, and their brains and nervous systems are more sensitive to the damaging effects of lead.

Children living at or below the poverty line who live in older housing are at greatest risk. Children of some racial and ethnic groups, and those living in older housing, are disproportionately affected by lead.

Learn more about sources of lead exposure.

Pregnant Women

Pregnant women can be exposed to lead by spending time in areas where lead-based paints are deteriorating into lead dust that they then breathe in. Likewise, eating and drinking from dishes or glasses that contain lead water, or using certain folk remedies to which lead is intentionally added can cause exposures to lead. In addition, working in a job or engaging in hobbies where lead is used, such as making stained glass, can increase exposure.

Adults

Adults are also susceptible to lead exposure. This may be from:

• • Breathing in lead dust, especially during renovation or repair work that disturbs painted surfaces in older homes and buildings.
  • Putting their hands or other objects covered with lead dust in their mouths.
  • Eating or drinking contaminated food or water or using certain folk remedies.
  • Working in a job or engaging in hobbies where lead is used.

Learn more about sources of lead exposure.

Lower Your Chances of Exposure to Lead

Simple steps like keeping your home clean and feeding your family a well-balanced diet will go a long way in preventing lead poisoning. You can lower the chances of exposure to lead in your home, both now and in the future, by taking these steps:

• Use only cold water to prepare food and drinks.
• Flush all water outlets used for drinking or food preparation.
• Clean debris out of all outlet screens or aerators on faucets on a regular basis.
• Keep your home clean and dust-free.
• Wipe up any paint chips or visible dust with a wet sponge or rag. Clean dust around areas where there is friction and dust can be generated, such as doors, windows, and drawers.
• Wash children’s hands, bottles, pacifiers and toys often.
• Teach children to wipe and remove their shoes and wash hands after playing outdoors.
• Ensure that your family members eat well-balanced meals. Lead interferes with some of the body’s basic functions. Our bodies can’t tell the difference between lead and calcium, which is a mineral that strengthens bones. Children with healthy diets absorb less lead.
• Make sure your contractor is Lead Safe Certified.

Determine if your family is at risk for lead poisoning with the Lead Poisoning Home Checklist (PDF) (1 pg, 47K, About PDF).

Mr. Home Inspector LLC does not provide Lead paint testing.

Consumer Product Safety Commission
and
Environmental Protection Agency
and the
American Lung Association (The Christmas Seal People)

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This booklet will help you understand asbestos: what it is, its health effects, where it is in your home, and what to do about it.

Even if asbestos is in your home, this is usually NOT a serious problem. The mere presence of asbestos in a home or a building is not hazardous. The danger is that asbestos materials may become damaged over time. Damaged asbestos may release asbestos fibers and become a health hazard.

THE BEST THING TO DO WITH ASBESTOS MATERIAL IN GOOD CONDITION IS TO LEAVE IT ALONE! Disturbing it may create a health hazard where none existed before. Read this booklet before you have any asbestos material inspected, removed, or repaired.

Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found In The Home

1. Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
2. Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
3. Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
4. Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
5. Older products such as stove-top pads may have some asbestos compounds.
6. Walls and floors around woodburning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard, or cement sheets.
7. Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
8. Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
9. Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

Disclaimer

This document may be reproduced without change, in whole or in part, without permission, except for use as advertising material or product endorsement. Any such reproduction should credit the American Lung Association, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The use of all or any part of this document in a deceptive or inaccurate manner or for purposes of endorsing a particular product may be subject to appropriate legal action.

Statement by the American Lung Association: The Statements in this brochure are based in part upon the results of a workshop concerning asbestos in the home which was sponsored by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and the American Lung Association (ALA). The sponsors believe that this brochure provides an accurate summary of useful information discussed at the workshop and obtained from other sources. However, ALA did not develop the underlying information used to create the brochure and does not warrant the accuracy and completeness of such information. ALA emphasizes that asbestos should not be handled, sampled, removed or repaired by anyone other than a qualified professional.

What Is Asbestos?

Asbestos is a mineral fiber. It can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance.

How Can Asbestos Affect My Health?

From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of:

• lung cancer:
  — mesothelioma, a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity; and
  — asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increases with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.

Where Can I Find Asbestos And When Can It Be A Problem?

Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos. Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:

• STEAM PIPES, BOILERS, and FURNACE DUCTS insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly.
• RESILIENT FLOOR TILES (vinyl asbestos, asphalt, and rubber), the backing on VINYL SHEET FLOORING, and ADHESIVES used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers. So may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal.
• CEMENT SHEET, MILLBOARD, and PAPER used as insulation around furnaces and woodburning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers. So may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation.
• DOOR GASKETS in furnaces, wood stoves, and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use.
• SOUNDPROOFING OR DECORATIVE MATERIAL sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly, or water-damaged material may release fibers. So will sanding, drilling, or scraping the material.
• PATCHING AND JOINT COMPOUNDS for walls and ceilings, and TEXTURED PAINTS. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos.
• ASBESTOS CEMENT ROOFING, SHINGLES, and SIDING. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, dilled, or cut.
• ARTIFICIAL ASHES AND EMBERS sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces. Also, other older household products such as FIREPROOF GLOVES, STOVE-TOP PADS, IRONING BOARD COVERS, and certain HAIRDRYERS.
• AUTOMOBILE BRAKE PADS AND LININGS, CLUTCH FACINGS, and GASKETS.

What Should Be Done About Asbestos In The Home?

If you think asbestos may be in your home, don’t panic! Usually the best thing is to LEAVE asbestos material that is in good condition ALONE.

Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. THERE IS NO DANGER unless fibers are released and inhaled into the lungs.

Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don’t touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage such as tears, abrasions, or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing, or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow.

Sometimes, the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads, or ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental, or other appropriate officials to find out proper handling and disposal procedures.

If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present.

How To Identify Materials That Contain Asbestos You can’t tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. If you nevertheless choose to take the samples yourself, take care not to release asbestos fibers into the air or onto yourself. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled. Anyone who samples asbestos-containing materials should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before sampling, and at a minimum, should observe the following procedures: Make sure no one else is in the room when sampling is done. Wear disposable gloves or wash hands after sampling. Shut down any heating or cooling systems to minimize the spread of any released fibers. Do not disturb the material any more than is needed to take a small sample. Place a plastic sheet on the floor below the area to be sampled. Wet the material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent before taking the sample. The water/detergent mist will reduce the release of asbestos fibers. Carefully cut a piece from the entire depth of the material using, for example, a small knife, corer, or other sharp object. Place the small piece into a clean container (for example, a 35 mm film canister, small glass or plastic vial, or high quality resealable plastic bag). Tightly seal the container after the sample is in it. Carefully dispose of the plastic sheet. Use a damp paper towel to clean up any material on the outside of the container or around the area sampled. Dispose of asbestos materials according to state and local procedures. Label the container with an identification number and clearly state when and where the sample was taken. Patch the sampled area with the smallest possible piece of duct tape to prevent fiber release. Send the sample to an asbestos analysis laboratory accredited by the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) at the National Institute of Standards and technology (NIST). A directory of NVLAP-accredited laboratories is available on the NVLAP web site, http://ts.nist.gov/nvlap. Your state or local health department may also be able to help.

How To Manage An Asbestos Problem

If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal.

REPAIR usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material.

Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace, and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely.

Covering(enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket.

With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make later removal of asbestos, if necessary, more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor.

Asbestos Do’s And Don’ts For The Homeowner Do keep activities to a minimum in any areas having damaged material that may contain asbestos. Do take every precaution to avoid damaging asbestos material. Do have removal and major repair done by people trained and qualified in handling asbestos. It is highly recommended that sampling and minor repair also be done by asbestos professionals. Don’t dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. Don’t saw, sand, scrape, or drill holes in asbestos materials. Don’t use abrasive pads or brushes on power strippers to strip wax from asbestos flooring. Never use a power stripper on a dry floor. Don’t sand or try to level asbestos flooring or its backing. When asbestos flooring needs replacing, install new floorcovering over it, if possible. Don’t track material that could contain asbestos through the house. If you cannot avoid walking through the area, have it cleaned with a wet mop. If the material is from a damaged area, or if a large area must be cleaned, call an asbestos professional.

Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos.

Minor repairs should also be done by professionals since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.

Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed. If you nevertheless choose to do minor repairs, you should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before doing anything. Contact your state or local health department or regional EPA office for information about asbestos training programs in your area. Your local school district may also have information about asbestos professionals and training programs for school buildings. Even if you have completed a training program, do not try anything more than minor repairs. Before undertaking minor repairs, carefully examine the area around the damage to make sure it is stable. As a general matter, any damaged area which is bigger than the size of your hand is not a minor repair.

Before undertaking minor repairs, be sure to follow all the precautions described earlier for sampling asbestos material. Always wet the asbestos material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent. Commercial products designed to fill holes and seal damaged areas are available. Small areas of material such as pipe insulation can be covered by wrapping a special fabric, such as rewettable glass cloth, around it. These products are available from stores (listed in the telephone directory under Safety Equipment and Clothing”) which specialize in asbestos materials and safety items.

REMOVAL is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.

Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They And What Can They Do?

Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.

Asbestos professionals can conduct home inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise about what corrections are needed and who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair or remove asbestos materials.

Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment, and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.

The federal government has training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also have or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.

If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable, and accredited – especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.

Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described during federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removals or performed them improperly. Unnecessary removals are a waste of money. Improper removals may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.

In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring, or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding, or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work. Call 1-800-USA-ROOF for names of qualified roofing contractors in your area. (Illinois residents call 708-318-6722.) For information on asbestos in floors, read “Recommended Work Procedures for Resilient Floor Covers.” You can write for a copy from the Resilient Floor Covering Institute, 966 Hungerford Drive, Suite 12-B, Rockville, MD 20850. Enclose a stamped, business-size, self-addressed envelope.

Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings, and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos. For more information, read “Guidance for Preventing Asbestos Disease Among Auto Mechanics,” available from regional EPA offices.

If You Hire A Professional Asbestos Inspector

• Make sure that the inspection will include a complete visual examination and the careful collection and lab analysis of samples. If asbestos is present, the inspector should provide a written evaluation describing its location and extent of damage, and give recommendations for correction or prevention.
• Make sure an inspecting firm makes frequent site visits if it is hired to assure that a contractor follows proper procedures and requirements. The inspector may recommend and perform checks after the correction to assure the area has been properly cleaned.

If You Hire A Corrective-Action Contractor

• Check with your local air pollution control board, the local agency responsible for worker safety, and the Better Business Bureau. Ask if the firm has had any safety violations. Find out if there are legal actions filed against it.
• Insist that the contractor use the proper equipment to do the job. The workers must wear approved respirators, gloves, and other protective clothing.
• Before work begins, get a written contract specifying the work plan, cleanup, and the applicable federal, state, and local regulations which the contractor must follow (such as notification requirements and asbestos disposal procedures). Contact your state and local health departments, EPA’s regional office, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration’s regional office to find out what the regulations are. Be sure the contractor follows local asbestos removal and disposal laws. At the end of the job, get written assurance from the contractor that all procedures have been followed.
• Assure that the contractor avoids spreading or tracking asbestos dust into other areas of your home. They should seal the work area from the rest of the house using plastic sheeting and duct tape, and also turn off the heating and air conditioning system. For some repairs, such as pipe insulation removal, plastic glove bags may be adequate. They must be sealed with tape and properly disposed of when the job is complete.
• Make sure the work site is clearly marked as a hazard area. Do not allow household members and pets into the area until work is completed.
• Insist that the contractor apply a wetting agent to the asbestos material with a hand sprayer that creates a fine mist before removal. Wet fibers do not float in the air as easily as dry fibers and will be easier to clean up.
• Make sure the contractor does not break removed material into small pieces. This could release asbestos fibers into the air. Pipe insulation was usually installed in preformed blocks and should be removed in complete pieces.
• Upon completion, assure that the contractor cleans the area well with wet mops, wet rags, sponges, or HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) vacuum cleaners. A regular vacuum cleaner must never be used. Wetting helps reduce the chance of spreading asbestos fibers in the air. All asbestos materials and disposable equipment and clothing used in the job must be placed in sealed, leakproof, and labeled plastic bags. The work site should be visually free of dust and debris. Air monitoring (to make sure there is no increase of asbestos fibers in the air) may be necessary to assure that the contractor’s job is done properly. This should be done by someone not connected with the contractor.

Caution! Do not dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These steps will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractors.

For more information, contact your local American Lung Association at their website at www.lungusa.org for copies of:

• Indoor Air Pollution Fact Sheet – Asbestos
• Air Pollution In Your Home?
• Other publications on indoor pollution

For more information on asbestos in other consumer products, call the CPSC Hotline or write to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, DC 20207. The CPSC Hotline has information on certain appliances and products, such as the brands and models of hair dryers that contain asbestos. Call CPSC at 1-800-638-CPSC. A teletypewriter (TTY) for the hearing impaired is available at (301) 595-7054. The Maryland TTY number is 1-800-492-8104.

To find out whether your state has a training and certification program for asbestos removal contractors, and for information on EPA’s asbestos programs, call the EPA at 202-554-1404.

For more information on asbestos identification and control activities, contact the Asbestos Coordinator in the EPA Regional Office for your region, or your state or local health department.

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CPSC documents are in the public domain; a CPSC document may be reproduced without change in part or whole by an individual or organization without permission. If it is reproduced, however, the Commission would appreciate knowing how it is used. Write the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Office of Information and Public Affairs, 4330 East West Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814 or send an e-mail via CPSC’s Online Form.

All CPSC publications – including exclusive web-only content – are available to consumers to print for free from their home, school or office computers. To order hard copies of any of the Neighborhood Safety Library Publications or Technical Reports and Handbooks, please e-mail CPSC. Be sure to include your mailing address, and specify the document number and name of the publication desired. Please allow 3-4 weeks for delivery.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of injury or death associated with the use of the thousands of consumer products under the agency’s jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries, and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $900 billion annually. CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard. CPSC’s work to ensure the safety of consumer products – such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters and household chemicals – contributed to a decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, go online to: SaferProducts.gov, call CPSC’s Hotline at (800) 638-2772 or teletypewriter at (301) 595-7054 for the hearing and speech impaired. Consumers can obtain this news release and product safety information at www.cpsc.gov. To join a free e-mail subscription list, please go to www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.aspx.

Mr Home Inspector LLC does not provide Asbestos testing.

Forgo inspection? I can’t believe what I’m reading. The couple in this article http://www.northjersey.com/realestate/140466223_An_unusual_need_called_for_better_preparation.html  made a poor decision not to inspect the home. If time was a factor, an inspector like me and others can provide the inspection report in less than 24 hours via email to all the interested parties, client, attorney, realtor, etc. The inspection could have uncovered and recommend improvements to the exterior perimeter drainage that could have prevented the unexpected damage from Hurricane Irene. Their “self inspection” did not uncover any “major issues”. Their savings of $400-500 on the inspection, could have saved them the money on flood repairs and that grand piano could be in the great room ready and waiting today. I know their agent, Ms Smith-Gilmore insisted on an inspection, it’s the right thing to do, protect your clients interests. A home inspection is the best investment you can make when you are buying a new home. The cost is less that on tenth of one percent of the home’s value, a bargain to find out what maybe wrong with it. Most inspections lead to the seller making repairs or offering a credit. If the buyers are in a hurry to close, like these people were, they can forgo repairs and credit, but at least they would have know what condition the home was in. They would have been better prepared to make repairs and improvements. Your readers should always get a home inspection it’s a great tool when you are making the biggest purchase of your life.

This is a dilema for most NJ home inspectors that has many answers. The biggest question is what determines the price of the inspection, there are a few.

1. The size and type of home?  A small home built on a slab with no garage will take less time to inspect than a 5 bedroom, 6 bath house with a 3 car garage, a basement, 2 crawlspaces, 3 fireplaces, 4 zone HVAC, etc.

2. The age of the home? An older home has more problems than a newer home, not always the case.  Older homes do have their concerns, but clients buying new construction expect everything to be perfect.  So Very old homes and brand new construction should cost the same right? Yes they should, both take longer and require more knowledge and patience.

3. What services are needed? Actually none!  Home inspections are not required, unless it states so in your purchase contract.  A home inspection if for your- information, it is a snapshot of the home on a particular day and time.  Most lenders require a wood destroying insect inspection report (termite inspection),  radon is also recommended but not required. I provide Home, termite, radon and mold testing.

4. When do you get the report?  Waiting a day or two for the report is normal.  Some inspectors provide you with a report on the spot, most likely a check list, cheaper.  Others send out the report via email, narrative with pictures, costlier. My narrative imaged reports arrive via email same day and a printed copy goes out to your attorney the following morning.

5. How experienced is the inspector?  This is the most important question to ask.  There are contractors who do home inspections and claim their contractor experience as inspection experience.  Then there are home inspectors who will tell you that they have done 25,000 inspections, really?  Do the math, divide 25,000 by a very busy 500 inspection year and you get a home inspector who has been inspecting for over 50 years.  Not possible, home inspection came into it’s own about 25 years ago and those new inspectors were not doing 500 inspections a year, maybe 100 inspections a year, it was a fledgling business. I’ve been inspecting in NJ for over 15 years, passed State testing and have been in over 6000 properties. As an aside, I’ve trained over 130 licensed home inspector in NJ over the past 7 years.  Truth be told if you don’t use me for a home inspection odds are you’ll use someone I trained.

6. Referrals?  Did the home inspector come from a client referral or from a business referral? A client referal means that they inspected for someone you know and did a comendable job.  A business referral means that an attorney or real estate agent think the inspector will take care of their clients. My testimonials speak for themselves.

Expect to pay at least $495.00 for a typical 3 bed 2 bath 1 car garage home inspection with a termite and radon service.

I’ve been charging this rate for over 5 years and it is competitive.  I don’t nickel and dime my clients as some other inspectors do, charging extra when there is a crawlspace, garage, summer kitchen, etc. Are there inspectors who charge less than me, of course, as there are inspectors who charge more.  I find that I’m usually in the middle.  I know that my new and repete clients always get more for their money and always go on to recommend me to their friends and family. Those who call me and don’t hire me, I only wish for them a good and thorough inspection.

As we radon measurement technicians know, NJ MET12754 & IAC2-00-3291, radon levels increase in the winter. Testing for radon levels in your  NJ home during the colder months of the year will usually give you the highest average reading.  Why?, because the ground being colder is more solid and slows down the radon gas’ ability to rise through it.  Then there is the stack effect in the home caused by heating.  As your furnace or boiler heats the home the air rises causing a low pressure zone in the lower part of the house and a high pressure zone in the upper floor.  Add snow to the ground and night fall and your readings will most likely be at their peak.  The concern here is that at this point during the year we spend more time home, windows and doors are closed longer.  The house air is not exchanged as often as during the warmer months of the year. Radon gas levels will increase and testing will confirm this.  No worries though, if the radon levels are high they can be lowered.  A Passive or a Sub-slab suction system installed by a licensed radon mitigation company can help reduce indoor radon levels to below the 4.o pCi/l level set by the EPA as actionable. These systems will help evacuate the air from below your house above your roof line, thereby reducing radon gas levels in your home to an acceptable level.  After these systems are installed yearly testing is recommended, a service we can provide.

Questions or concerns?  Fell free to contact me at 201.869.3400 or email lmarquez@mrhomeinspector.net